A Fabulous Week in San Francisco

Recently, friends of mine were visiting San Francisco.  Although I have always prided myself in being the city’s aficionado and have seen most (if not all) of San Francisco’s highlights, pinpointing them to merely few days for tourists was a task I was not prepared for.

Then, when I started to research places to go and things to do, I was surprised to learned that most of the recommended tourist sights listed in travel guides and websites really didn’t give the visitors an authentic feel for what San Francisco was all about and hardly showed off what this complex and diverse city has to offer. 

Also, with all the extraordinary things to see and do, every travel guide and website recommended day trips outside of the city after spending merely 2-3 days in the city. Seeing San Francisco in 2-3 days?!? That’s hardly enough time to taste all the wonderful foods!

Unlike some of the locals who look down upon touristy spots (which applies to people everywhere, New Yorkers, Berliner, Parisians – especially the Parisians), even after living in San Francisco for 7 years, I love doing touristy stuff. However, in order to truly see and experience the beauty and eclectic culture of this city, you must go off the beaten path beyond the city’s iconic landmarks.

So, for those of you who are interested in experiencing San Francisco and all its diverse culture, sights and foods, here are my recommendations of the places to visit and things to do to - and have a fabulous week in the city by the bay. 

Day 1: The Conventional Highlights

• Grace Cathedral 
• Lombard Street 
• Coit Tower – Don't miss the newly restored murals depicting California agriculture, industry and the city’s leftist leanings.
• lunch @ House of Nanking or House of Xian Dumpling
• coffee break @ Réveille 
• City Lights Book Store – definitely one of San Francisco’s institutions and one of the few truly great independent bookstores in the United States that specializes in world literature, the arts, and progressive politics; quotes and photos of Burroughs, Kerouac and Ginsberg are displayed throughout the store; it’s not just a bookstore – it's a legacy.
• Chinatown

What to expect: Stunning views and photo opportunities, hilly streets which San Francisco is famous for, introduction to the diverse ethnic groups that has become an integral part of this city – this country.

What to avoid: Chinese restaurants on Grant Street, most of which are mediocre. Instead, head over to the restaurant in Inner/Outer Sunset for great Chinese food.

Day 2: Golden Gate Park

• Stow Lake – Do not miss the climb up to Strawberry Hill. There are steps near the Chinese Pavilion along the waterfall, and the view from the top is breathtaking.
• lunch @ any restaurant between 6th – 12th Avenue between Judah & Lincoln Way
• Japanese Tea Garden 
• Shakespeare Garden
• National AIDS Memorial Grove 
• Conservatory of Flowers

What to expect: Over three miles (4.8 km) of sublime nature & beauty; Golden Gate Park stretches between Haight-Ashbury and the Pacific Ocean and encompasses 1,017 acres of gardens, walking paths, lakes, recreation fields, museums, a Japanese tea garden, and innumerable areas for music events and recreational sports.

Day 3: The Mission District

• Mission Delores
• Delores Park
• lunch @ Pica Pica Arepa Kitchen, El Toro Taqueria, Limón Rotisserie 
• check out more than 200 colorful murals that reflect the area’s Hispanic heritage and the immigrant experience displayed all over the neighborhood, especially around Clarion Alley, Balmy Alley and 24th Street

What to expect: Illustration and reflection of the rich history and heritage of Hispanic immigrants, a GREAT selection of Hispanic, Central and South America cuisine, trendy boutiques, a spectacular view from the top of Delores Park

What to avoid: Overpriced restaurants that are more hype than substance; You can usually spot them by a block-long line outside – trust me; they’re NOT worth the wait and the hassle!

Day 4: San Francisco Treat

• F line trolleys – Rice-A-Roni may have made San Francisco’s Cable Cars famous, but F line trolleys will forever be my favorite mode of transportation in the city and the best way to see the city’s highlights. 
• Fisherman's Wharf
• Pier 39 Seals
• lunch @ La Boulange Metreon  or Tropisueño 
• Union Square (view from Cheesecake Factory inside Macy's)
• V.C. Morris Gift Shop on Maiden Lane – Fashioned in 1948 by Frank Lloyd Wright, a precursor to his famous spirals for the Guggenheim Museum in NYC is definitely worth a visit.

What to expect: A fun trolley ride along some of the most scenic part of the San Francisco, especially along Embarcadero

What to avoid: Restaurants inside the Ferry Building, which tend to be overpriced tourist traps

Day 5: Spectacular Views & Nature

• 16th Avenue Tiled Steps
• Lands End & Sutro Baths
• lunch @ Burma Superstar or Giorgio's Pizzeria
• Crissy Field
• Palace of Fine Arts

What to expect: Absolutely breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and the Bay with the majestic Golden Gate Bridge as a backdrop, all around great photo opportunities, great picnic spots

Day 6: The Heart of San Francisco

• Alamo Square Park & the Painted Ladies
• Haight-Ashbury – The birthplace of America's counter-culture, which was born during the summer of 1967, a.k.a. The Summer of Love.
• lunch @ Parada 22 
• Hayes Valley – a great selection of one of a kind stores and boutiques
• Castro
• Twin Peaks

What to expect: Although Haight-Ashbury has become one of favorite spots for tourists, it still is the best reflection of what San Francisco – and San Franciscans are all about, eclectic bohemians at heart.

Day 7: Experience Fahrvergnügen, the Joy of Driving

Drive along HWY 1 to Pacifica & catch the sunset at Fort Funston

What to expect: Pure exhilarating driving experience along the coastal road that was declared by National Geographic Magazine as being one of the world's greatest “drives of a lifetime”, and it doesn’t disappoint! It’s without a doubt one of the most unforgettable sights in North America, filled with towering cliffs, gorgeous secluded beaches, and spectacular nature with every twist and turn revealing the most breathtaking scenery.  Although Highway 1 goes down all the way down to central California coast, the drive to Pacifica will give you a nice glimpse of the spectacular scenery.

I recommend you skip:

• Renting a bike – Have you seen the size of the hills in San Francisco?  Why would anyone recommend renting a bike to tourists is incomprehensible.  Unless you have the stamina of Lance Armstrong, there are much better and easier ways to get around the city. Also, San Francisco has some of the most aggressive bikers in the entire country. We’re like New Yorkers on two wheels. Therefore, I don’t recommend that you take this mode of transportation to tour around the city unless you want to feel like you’re auditioning for the urban version of “Survivor”.
• Segway Tours – There’s nothing that is more disruptive to the idyllic scenery and local life in San Francisco than a group of Segway tourists. I get that it's a “fun” way to see the city, but just be warned, it definitely annoys the locals. 
• Museums are subpar in San Francisco, and the only museums worth going to are the ones that cater to children, as listed in my blog, Fun Things To Do with Children in San Francisco.

I grouped my recommendations by neighborhood, as seeing them by neighborhoods will not only give you a better understanding of the city and its community, but it will save you a lot of time and energy – I was surprised to learn that one guidebook actually recommended seeing Fisherman’s Wharf in the morning and Golden Gate Park in the afternoon, which is located in complete opposite part of town.

There are a lot of great things to do and see in San Francisco, and whether you’re visiting the city or just looking to entertain guests, I hope this list provides plenty of inspiration – enjoy!

For more of my recommendations in San Francisco, check out: 

Insider's Guide to San Francisco 

I ♥ My City! 
Fun Things To Do With Children In San Francisco  

Experience NYC Like A New Yorker

It has been just over a decade since I’d lived in New York City. Yet, once a New Yorker, you always feel like a New Yorker, as THE city has a way of seeping into every core of who you are. Even though I was born in South Korea and grew up in Texas, I always feel as if New York City is my hometown, and it will always be a part of who I am.

It’s been great being able to return to the city with my family, especially our 4-year old son, who after last trip told me that he liked NYC so much that he wanted to live there … that’s my boy! It’s not hard to see why he loves it, as NYC has a way of captivating people of all ages, and the best part is that being with my husband and our son, we’re able to discover the side of NYC that I wasn’t able to as a single 20-something who worked like crazy all day and played all night.

As a family, we’ve been able to discover and enjoy the softer and more serene side of NYC, and have learned to enjoy that in the city that never sleeps, peace and tranquility is always just around the corner.

The Highline

After all the places I’ve seen in NYC, I can honestly say that the Highline (from Gansevoort St to West 34th St, btw 10/11th Ave) is my favorite. It epitomizes the city that is constantly evolving and recreating itself. Not only the design and the atmosphere of the park unique and innovative, it has transformed a neighborhood which was formally known as the “Death Avenue” into a trendy, upscale, and more importantly, family friendly area.

As the park expands from lower Manhattan to 31th Street in Midtown, it provides some of the best views of the key monuments, the Empire State building, Chrysler Building, and on a clear day, the Statue of Liberty.

There's an eclectic mix of art installations as well as tasty food carts, art vendors and musicians, and the great thing about the Highline is that it enables you to have and enjoy an urban experience in the midst of (man-made) nature.

Central Park 

What more can I say about Central Park that hasn’t been said. It’s FABULOUS! Immersed in lush and wild nature with a massive skyline as a backdrop, it’s truly an urban oasis that defies all logic.

For most New Yorkers, the park is a sanctuary. Especially for me, it was a place where I’d retreated to whenever my life in the city got too much, and I needed to regroup and recuperate. Also, some of the best and most memorable experiences I’ve had were in the park … like serendipitously meeting my husband.

It’s a place where we always go back to reminisce about our wonderful past lives in the city as well as creating beautiful new ones with our son who absolutely adores every corner of the park.

Our favorites in the park: Heckscher Playground, Poets Row, Bethesda Terrace, Alice in Wonderland Statue, John Lennon Imagine Memorial, and the always entertaining and eclectic street performance

Upper West Side

I love the Upper West Side! Of course, I’m a little bias since this used to be my old hood, and my husband and I try to revisit our favorites and go back to our usual hangouts whenever we’re in NYC. Also, it helps that UWS is the more residential hence the quieter area in Manhattan, and it tends to be more family-friendly than other neighborhoods. There are so many great activities for children, namely American Museum of Natural History and Children’s Museum, and one of my favorite must do's on Sunday is to go to the Green Flea Market on Columbus Avenue, which offers everything from an assortment of vintage cloths, furniture, records and memorabilia to a wide variety of crafts and tasty treats.

I always find something unique and wonderful to take home, but I enjoy just strolling around and being part of the locals.

FAO Schwarz

FAO Schwarz (767 5th Ave & 58th St) is every child’s fantasy come true, but even for parents, seeing the delight and happiness on their precious faces as soon as we walk through the door is absolutely priceless!

Like Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel across the street, FAO Schwarz is not just another store, it’s a NYC institution.

There are all kinds of toys imaginable, an entire floor full of candies and treats, custom-made hand puppets, magic tricks, cupcakes, and of course, our son’s favorite, the BIG PIANO! This is what I imagine Santa's workshop would look like, and it’s so much more fun than taking my boy to a theme park where I have to wait in line an hour just to get on a ride. It’s a place where children of all ages, and those who are still a child at heart will remember.

NYC Public Library

Everyone who has seen "Breakfast at Tiffany's" will remember the iconic scene when Audrey Hepburn gets out of a cab and stands in front of Tiffany's on 5th Avenue and 57th Street, but the place I remember the best from the movie is the NYC Public Library (5th Ave & 42nd St). Its beauty and majestic architecture was forever etched into my mind.

Then, when lived in NY, it was my secret hideout anytime I needed a moment alone, or when there was so little to do during the cold and dark days of winter, it became a place where I would spend hours reading. It was like an intellectual equivalent of Barney's, and even now, whenever we’re in NYC, I love to visit the library just to sit on those musty old chairs and absorb the grandeur of it all.

Koreatown (a.k.a. Korea Way)

Manhattan has always had a reputation for being an expensive place, but there are plenty of wonderful places to see and fun things to do for little to no money. Also, you can have fantastic meals without spending big bucks, and some of the best can be found in Koreatown.

West 32nd Street between Broadway and 5th Avenue is the heart of Koreatown in the city, and being that it's barely two blocks, it is no comparison to the massive scale of the K-town in L.A. However, the two block radius of this Korean enclave in Midtown is PACKED with GREAT EATS, and it’s essentially a mini-Seoul, including multi-level karaoke bars, a book store, a massive grocery store, two bakeries that will blow your taste buds, a food court, multiple hair salons, two Korean churches, saunas, English Language Schools, Law Offices, Wholesale Import Businesses, Hotels, and even a tattoo parlor! And some of them are opened 24/7!

Also, located smack dab in Midtown, the location couldn't be better, as almost every subway line makes a stop at either 34th Street Herald Square Station or at the Penn Station just a block up, and especially if you’re staying in the area, it’s the best place to grab a tasty meal.

Our favorites: Arirang, BonChon Chicken, Cho Dang Gol, Hanbat, Mandoo Bar, Pho 32 & Shabu, Paris Baguette

Cannolis @ Veniero’s

Hands down, Veniero’s (342 E 11th St btw 1st/2nd Ave) has the best Italian pastries in town! The place is an institution … literally, as this family-owned establishment has been serving the East Village community and well beyond since 1894 … that’s older than some of the cities in the US.

The Cannolis here are perfection! It was my favorite go to dessert spot when I lived in NYC, and even now, no matter where we’re staying, we would gladly schlep half way across town for possibly the finest pastries and cakes outside of Italy.

The great thing about Veniero’s is that immediately upon entering the restaurant, there is a display case filled with a vast variety of pastries, an assortment of handmade Italian butter cookies, freshly baked biscotti, and traditional cheese cakes and specialty cakes, which are ALL available for you to take to go, and there’s nothing … I mean, nothing that makes us happier on a 5-hour flight back home than opening up a beautifully wrapped box full of miniature Cannolis from Veniero’s!

Peking Duck House

I remember when I’d arrived in NYC, and the first time a friend of mine had taken us to a restaurant in Chinatown. It was crazy crowded, intense, and there was so much going on with the vendors shouting and the smell from the food carts permeating what seemed to be the entire city. It was the polar opposite from the quiet and homogeneous suburb in which I’d grown up, and that’s when I knew my life in NYC would be so completely different.

Even now, as insanely chaotic as it is to maneuver through the narrow and crowd packed streets, we always go back our favorite dives in Chinatown. Unfortunately, some of them have been discovered and have become quite the popular places. My husband and I had dined at Peking Duck (28 Mott St btw Mosco St & Pell St) since it was just another hole-in-the-wall in an endless row of great Chinese restaurants. Although the specialty here is the Peking Duck dinner, we actually prefer the other Mandarin specialties on the menu, which are rare and harder to find in San Francisco, where the Chinese restaurants tends to gear towards Cantonese style.

By all means, the duck is fantastic … as good as those I’ve had in Beijing; however, like everything else we do while in NY, we just prefer to have the meals that bring back certain memories for us.

Uncle Nick’s

It’s no secret that NYC is full of great … and dare I say, the best restaurants in the world. You definitely don’t have to comb through the guidebooks or depend on the proverbial Michelin Guides, which is more like a book of advertisement, in order to get a great meal in the city.

However, even among the top-notched restaurants in Midtown, Uncle Nick’s (747 9th Ave btw 50th/51st St) definitely stand out as one of our favorites. My husband and I have dined at Uncle Nick’s for over two decades, and it has never disappointed us. It’s been consistently guuud, and it’s become our go to restaurant whenever we’re in town. It ain’t fancy, but we can always count on having a great meal at Nick’s while sitting among the locals.

NYC Public Transportation

NYC Public Transit is not only the best and fastest mode of transportation, it’s often the most fun way to see the city and beyond. Not only is the Staten Island Ferry one of the best freebies in town, the bus rides from one end of the island to the other are the best way to get around the city that never sleeps at any and all hours of the day.

Insider's Guide: My Favorites in NYC

By Neighborhoods:

1. Lower Manhattan and Battery Park City
2. Tribeca
3. Soho
4. West and Central Village
5. East Village
6. Lower East Side
7. Nolita and Noho
8. Gramercy Park and Murray Hill
9. Chelsea
10. Midtown East and Sutton Place
11. Midtown West and Hell's Kitchen
12. Upper East Side
13. Upper West Side
14. Morningside Heights
15. Harlem
16. Hamilton Heights and Washington Heights
17. Brooklyn Heights and Cobble Hill
18. Boerum Hill and Carroll Gardens
19. Red Hook
20. Dumbo

MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS AND BEYOND: This area boasts one of the city's best and least-visited treasures.

• the Cloisters – Although it’s a bit of a long bus ride, this recreation of a French medieval cloister is dedicated solely to medieval art, and boasts famous tapestries, medieval gardens and sculpture, and the area is absolutely tranquil and difficult to fathom that you’re in Manhattan at all.
• the Riverside Park – a beautiful park & promenade along the Hudson river where you can see some of the most spectacular architecture in the city, including the flying buttresses of the Riverside Church on 125th St, Grant’s Tomb, and the perpetually unfinished but breathtaking Cathedral of St. John the Divine, arguably the world's largest Gothic cathedral.
• Columbia University campus and the neighborhood, where there is a great selection of restaurants and cafés

UPPER WEST SIDE: It has undergone quite a bit of gentrification in recent years but still remains to be my favorite area in NYC.

• the Dakota – one of the most beautiful and historical residential buildings in NYC, and John Lennon "Imagine" Memorial in Strawberry Fields at the entrance to Central Park is a must see
• the Children's Museum & the American Museum of Natural History
• Lincoln Center & Juilliard, where you can see world-class ballets and operas, and in the summer, there are several dance performance outside on the plaza
• Green Flea Market on Columbus Ave. btw. 76th & 77th Streets (opened usually on the weekends), where it's a great fun to spend an entire day just strolling through it discovering one-of-a-kind items.
• Calle Ocho (45 W 81st St) – a great nouveau Latin restaurant … also has a cool but cozy bar attached to the restaurant
• French Roast – a café so charming that you’ll never enter Starbucks again
• my favorite Mexican restaurants: Gabriela’s (688 Columbus Ave btw 93/94th St) & Mama Mexico’s (2672 B'way btw 101/102nd St)
• Ocean Grill (384 Columbus Ave btw 77/78th St) – a fabulous restaurant specializing in great seafood dishes 
• le Pain Quotidien (in Central Park on W 69th Street near Sheep Meadow) – charming café that offers a great selection of breakfast, brunch and lunch

UPPER EAST SIDE: It’s one of the more residential and conservative neighborhoods in the city. However, there’s no denying that UES also has some of the most picturesque tree-lined streets filled with upscale shops, restaurants and gorgeous turn-of-the-century buildings.

• the Central Park – Walk, bike or rollerblade, it’s an absolutely beautiful place to be.
• the “Museum Mile”: the Metropolitan Museum of Art , the Guggenheim , the Whitney , the Museum of the City of New York , and the Cooper-Hewitt Museum of Design … also, not to miss, the outdoor roof garden at the Met has the best view of the park
• shops on Madison Avenue, my favorite Barney’s (Madison & 60th) has a great restaurant at the basement level
• Daniel (60 E. 65th St btw Madison/Park Ave) – a perfect place if you're on a business trip looking to impress clients or have generous expense account, but not really a place I would recommend. The food is as good as everyone ... or all the guidebooks says, and the ambiance and the service surpasses all expectation of a 5 star restaurant; however, you won't find too many locals there, and for the price, you can definitely find a much better meal elsewhere.

MIDTOWN: Known as the most visited (touristy) area in NY; however, there’s definitely a lot to see and do.

• the musts: St. Patrick's Cathedral, Rockefeller Center & its skating rink (beautifully decorated during the holidays), Radio City Music Hall, and Museum of Modern Art
• Time Square, esp. at night – the view is certainly worth the hassle of shoving and being shoved through the crowd
• NY Public Library, the main branch (42nd & 5th Ave) and Bryant Park behind it – one of the best undiscovered treasures in the city
• Grand Central Station – I just love to see NYC on the move, and there’s no better place to see the city in motion than Grand Central Station!
• Asia de Cuba ( 237 Madison Ave btw 37/38th St) – If you want a "Sex and the City" like experience, this is the place to be, and after all these years, it's still a fabulous place. Expect beaucoup d'ambiance but mediocre food.
• Bann (350 W. 50th bt 8/9) – upscale Korean cuisine
• Breeze – a moderately priced Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen that also serves up tasty fusion French dishes
• Le Cirque (151 E 58th St btw Lex/3rd Ave) – a gorgeous restaurant in mid-town with a great atmo; a little pricey for dinner but worth checking out the lunch
• Le Colonial (149 E 57th St btw Lex/3rd Ave) – another great restaurant in mid-town that serves nouveau Vietnamese
• Man Doo Bar and Pho 32 & Shabu (2 W 32nd St btw 5th/B'way) – great ‘cheap eats’ in Koreatown
  For list of top 5 Korean restaurants in NY
• Uncle Nick’s (747 9th Ave btw 50/51st St and 382 8th Ave btw 29/30th St) ) – tastiest Greek & seafood dishes

CHELSEA / UNION SQUARE: Also a relatively residential area, but there’s a lot of creative energy and is becoming increasingly upscale.

• the High Line (W. 30th St & 10th Ave to Tribeca) – NY ingenuity at its best … NOT TO BE MISSED!
• Chelsea Market – a heaven for foodie
• Union Square Greenmarket , where over 70 vendors sell high-quality produce, meats, baked goods, and other wares to discerning consumers.
• Pier 17 (Chelsea Piers Sports Complex) – a playground for adults, batting cages, rock climbing, simulated golf course … you name it, they got ‘em!
• the shops along 5th Ave & Broadway bt. 23rd – 14th St – offer a much more reasonable selection of clothing and there are a lot of corky little antique/book shops along the way
• Loeman’s (17th St. & 7th Ave) - the discount stores in NYC are totally different ball game
• TJ Maxx (6th Ave btw 18/19th St) – TJ Maxx is on the 2nd floor of this gorgeous building that Bed, Bath and Beyond is in.
• Petite Abeille (17th St btw 5/6th Ave) – a charming little restaurant that offers a wonderful selection of Belgian/French cuisine, but of course, mussels & fries are their speciality
• Republic (Union Sq) – The food is on a mediocre side but the ambiance is superb; definitely worth checking out if you’re in the area.

WEST VILLAGE: an absolutely picturesque part of town full of turn-of-the-century brownstones and beautiful tree-lined streets

• Tea & Sympathy (108 Greenwich Ave btw 12th & Jane St) – a quintessential corner of England in the heart of Greenwhich Village, unlike anything I was able to find in London

LOWER EAST SIDE: This area has undergone major gentrification in the recent years and has lost some of its former edge; nevertheless, it has remained its cultural diversity and retained its bohemian vibe.

• Strolling through NoLita (north of Little Italy) – wonderfully eclectic area reminiscent of SOHO
• a wonderful selection of Indian restaurants on 6th Street (literally the entire block) between 1st & 2nd Ave, my favorite, Banjara (corner of 1st Ave & 6th St)
• Café el Portal (Elizabeth & Spring)
• Danal (59 Fifth Ave btw 12/13 St) – a quintessential NYC restaurant full of charm, comfort and delicious items on the menu
• Indochine (430 Lafayette St btw 4th St & Astor Pl) – a nice Asian fusion restaurant with great atmosphere ... very old-school glam, the food is so so but the drinks are fabulicious!
• Il Buco (47 Bond St btw Lafayette/Bowery) – an absolutely charming little place reminiscent of an intimate restaurant in Tuscany with a great selection of Italian dishes with a twist
• Katz's Deli (Houston & Ludlow) – the oldest deli in New York, a true NY landmark that serves kick-ass pastrami sandwiches
• Veniero's (1st Ave & 11th St) – heavenly Italian dessert place

SOHO / CHINA TOWN:

• Strolling around in SOHO, preferably on weekdays, as on weekend, it’s filled with tourists
• bargain hunting in Chinatown
• Prada (SOHO) – you definitely should see the store, the interior architecture is brilliant!
• Pearl River Department Store – has a great variety of eclectic goods; a great secret among New Yorkers
• Bar 89 (89 Mercer St btw Broome/Spring St) – a relatively laid back bar with a cool atmo, which is a rarity in SOHO … make sure to check out the bathroom while there
• Excellent Dumpling House (Lafayette & B’way) – the best damn dumplings and Chinese food in NY
• Kelley & Ping (127 Greene St btw Prince/Houston St) – a Pan Asian restaurant with a wonderful atmosphere
• Noho Star (330 Lafayette St btw Houston/Bleecker St) – technically in north of Houston Street, a classic NY diner that serves up fabulous brunches
• Penang (109 Spring St btw Mercer/Greene St) – a great Malaysian restaurant; 2-3 locations throughout Manhattan, but the on in SOHO has the best atmosphere
• Peking Duck House (28 Mott St btw Mosco/Pell St) – best damn honey glazed pork ribs and of course, the DUCK

WALL STREET AND BEYOND:

• 9/11 Memorial Preview Site – Being back 10 years after 9/11 at this memorial, there are no words that can describe how I felt ... like all New Yorkers who lived through that horrid day, I was just grateful to be there.  Understandably, the security at the entrance is stringent; however, the logistics of getting into the site is relatively easy if you reserve a pass(es) online.   
• the lovely park in front of the City Hall 
• South Street Seaport – It can get a bit crowded at times, but the view of the harbor and the Brooklyn Bridge alone will make it worthwhile. 
• walk across the Brooklyn Bridge … or just a half way to it we’ve always done
• Century 21 (Wall Street) – the mother of all bargain basement shopping experience, BUT it’s only worth it if you’re looking to doing some SERIOUS shopping, as it will be unbearably crowded and crazy on the weekends
• the Staten Island ferry, during which you can get a spectacular view of the Statue of Liberty
• the Brooklyn Academy of Music, aka BAM, has the more contemporary and interesting performances, versus the more traditional ones at the MET.
• the Brooklyn Heights has a great selection of antique shops … also might be interesting place for you to find one-of-a-kind furniture.

HOTEL RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Beacon Hotel (Upper West) – a charming little hotel in a beautiful residential area
• Park 79 (Upper West) – a moderately priced wonderful little boutique hotel
• The Mark (Upper East) – a beautiful hotel that will take you back to old NY
• Roger Williams (Midtown East) – a modern and reasonable hotel in a central location
• Ink 48
• Staybridge – can't say enough great things about the staff, who were absolutely wonderful throughout our entire stay ... rarity in NY.  Also, it offers a nice modern accommodations at accommodations for families in great location
• Gershwin Hotel (Gramercy) – a bit eclectic and fun
• Washington Square Hotel (East Village) – a relatively inexpensive but charming hotels across from the Washington Square Park
• Soho Grand (SOHO) – a gorgeous hotel with stunning decor, definitely worth the splurge
• Cosmopolitan Hotel (Tribeca) – a nice and comfortable accommodation in the heart of Tribeca

NOT TO BE MISSED:

• July/August – Free outdoor concerts
• 1st Sunday in November – NYC Marathon
• the last Thursday in November – Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade
• November/December - lighting of the Christmas tree at the Rockefeller Center
• December – beginning of all performances: classical ballet, Alvin Alley, opera, etc.
• every weekend – the brunches! 
• fall foliage in Central Park

For a list of all year round free events and museums in the city

Insider's Guide to San Francisco

While traveling, I’m always pleasantly surprised at the positive response and feedback I get from people when I mention that I live in San Francisco, as most often, they are more excited than I am to tell me how much they love it.  Every time I walk outside my apartment, it’s easy to be reminded of just how beautiful the city is, as a simple drive can turn into a postcard moment.

However, my favorite thing about San Francisco is the diversity, in culture, people, cuisine and lifestyle, and without a doubt, it is one of the most diverse cities I’ve lived in. I also love the unpredictability of the place, as anything goes, and the “typical” everyday scenery on the street is anything BUT.

The great thing about living in San Francisco is that it offers all of the conveniences of a big city, like public transit, progressive art scene, world class restaurants, and of course the multi-ethnic community, with very little of its inconveniences.

So, without further ado, here are my favorites places and things to do in San Francisco.

*** FESTIVALS ***

• Lunar New Year celebration (mid-Feb/early Mar) in downtown around Chinatown 
• Cherry Blossom Festival (mid-Apr) in Japantown 
• Bay to Breakers (May) begins near the Bay Bridge and ends at Golden Gate Park   
• LGBT Pride Parade (last Sat in Jun) in downtown on Market St
• Yerba Buena Garden Festival (starts around early May and ends in Sep) at Yerba Buena Garden
• Fillmore Jazz Festival (the 4th of July weekend) on Fillmore btw Jackson and Eddy  
• Castro Street Fair (Oct) in Castro District, on Castro btw Market & 20^thSt

*** RESTAURANTS (by area) ***

San Francisco is a city where the price of the food doesn’t necessary reflect its quality, and great meals don’t have to cost a lot of money. Of course, 5 star restaurants are abundant in San Francisco; however, some of the best meals I’ve had were in hole-in-the-wall, mom & pop type of restaurants, which in my opinion are also more authentic to the local culture.

Downtown:

• Chaat Café (320 3rd St) – once you get over the generic ambiance of the place, Chaat Café offers some of the freshest and the best tasting Indian food in town; also has a great selection of Indian street food 
• New Asia (Chinatown 772 Pacific near Stockton) – a gigantic dim sum palace, a true Chinatown experience
• R&G Lounge (Chinatown 631 Kearny St.) – a family style restaurant that serves up a great selection Cantonese dishes
• Tropisueno (75 Yerba Buena Ln) – definitely one of my favorites that offers great food & wonderful atmosphere at a reasonable price

Tenderloin, affectionately known as “the loin”:

• Dim Sum Bar (620 O'Farrell St btw Harlem Alley & Leavenworth St) – looks like an ordinary fast food Chinese restaurant that serves up tasty (definitely not fast) food 
• Dottie’s True Blue Café (522 Jones St btw Geary St & O'farrell St) – hands down one of the best brunch places in San Francisco, always packed and has at least 30min wait minimum but definitely worth it
• Thai Stix (925 O'Farrell St btw Polk St & Van Ness) – the must have item here is the Thai Suki, a communal dish where you can cook your meat, seafood, noodles and vegetables in a hot pot; the rest of the menu is rather mediocre

Mission:
There isn’t a shortage of great Mexican and South American restaurant in the Mission District, and it will take years to try all of them … a task I’ll gladly take on; however, here are some of my favorites so far. No doubt this list will grow in the coming year.

• San Jalisco (901 S Van Ness Ave btw 20th/21st St) – I can’t say enough good things about this restaurant. It really is a quintessential San Franciscan Mexican restaurant, own by the same family since it has opened, and when you’re there, you feel as if you’ve been invited to a friend’s house for a delicious home cooked meal.
• El Delfin (3066 24th St btw Lucky St & Treat Ave) – tasty, fresh, great flavors, and incredibly friendly and helpful service … what more can I ask for.
• Frjtz (590 Valencia St btw 16/17th St) – the best mussels and fries in town
• Limon Rotissery (1001 S Van Ness Ave btw 21st/22nd St) – It really is all about the chicken at Limon; however, the best grilled chicken, dare I say, I've ever had

Castro:

• Burgermeister (138 Church St.) – the best burger in town … nuff said! 
• El Castillito (136 Church St. btw. Duboce Ave/Reservoir St) – a real hole-in-the-wall gem ... love everything on their menu, esp. the beef fajita dinner plate, which is made freshly on demand. The price is great, and the staff is very friendly.
• Firewood Café – an always dependable option for lunch or dinner. It has a great selection of thin crusted piazzas cooked in wood-fired oven. 

Cole Valley:

• la Boulange (1000 Cole St btw Parnassus Ave/Grattan St) – dependable chain that serves up tasty light French fare and a good selection of pastries
• Zazie (941 Cole St btw Carl St/Parnassus Ave) – without a doubt one of the best restaurants in San Francisco specializing in French dishes with bit of a twist

Western Addition/NOPA:

• Bistro Central Parc (560 Central Ave btw Hayes St & Grove St) – delightful and charming restaurant that serves up authentically delicious French cuisine, definitely not to be missed 

Richmond:

• Aziza (5800 Geary Blvd @ 22nd Ave.) – not the most authentic Moroccan food but it has a great ambiance 
• Burma Superstar (309 Clement St btw 4/5th Ave) – delicious, delovely, delightful!
• Giorgio’s Pizzeria (151 Clement St.) – pizzeria that's worth raving about ... good selection, tasty pizzas and great service 

Sunset:

There are so many reasons why I love living in San Francisco, but mostly, I luv my hood, Sunset. It is filled a wonderful mélange cuisine and restaurants, making it an ideal destination for foodies or anyone looking for a great meal.

• Arizmendi Bakery (1331 9th Ave btw Irving & Judah) – This place is AWESOME ... a little slice of heaven that has a great selection of muffins and scones!
• Devil's Teeth Baking Company (3876 Noriega St btw 45/46th Ave) – the location is a bit remote but definitely worth a trip for the tastiest baked goods in San Francisco 
• Goeman (1524 Irving St btw 16/17th Ave) – my favorite Japanese restaurant in the city with hands down the best rolls 
• Marsala Dosa (1375 9th Ave btw Irving & Judah) – serves some of the freshest and tastiest Indian food I’ve had in SF, and as the name goes, their dosas are a must.
• Park Chow (1240 9th Ave btw Irving St & Lincoln Way) – a great place for brunch
• Park Gyros (1201 9th Ave. @ Lincoln Way) – Although the ambiance is quite generic, the food is great, especially the kebab plates. My favorite is the lamb shish kebab, which is cooked to perfection every time ... well done on the outside and slightly rare inside … and the swordfish kebab. 
• Pasquale's Pizza (700 Irving St btw 8/9th Ave) – My quest to find a decent pizzeria in San Francisco ended when I found Pasquale’s … a great selection of freshly made pizzas, which means no slices; however, you can have individualized pizza made fresh for around $5 with any toppings you want.
• San Tung (Irving btw. 11/12th Ave.) – Despite the general misconception that there are many great Chinese restaurants in San Francisco, there are only a hand full, and San Tung is one of the best. 
• Yummy Yummy (1015 Irving St btw 11/12th Ave) – offers a huge menu, everything from a variety of Phos, rice plates, grilled meats and other Vietnamese specialties to my personal favorite, catfish in clay pot

*** 10 THINGS NOT TO MISS IN SF ***

Murals & Mosaics (throughout the city)

A walk down San Francisco city streets and alleys offers more than just linear pathways to local destinations. Along the walls of buildings and residential houses, more than 600 local murals filled with colorful beauty and social political narratives, and although there are many collective works throughout the city, notably Balmy Alley (btw 24th & 25th St) and Clarion Alley (one block over from 17th street between Valencia and Mission St), almost every corner is filled with illustration of the city’s rich heritage, culture and history.

For more photos of the murals in San Francisco

16th Avenue Tiled Steps (Moraga St. btw 15th & 16th Ave)

Tucked away in the quiet neighborhood between Inner and Outer Sunset, the 16th Avenue Tiled Steps are among the hidden treasures of San Francisco. Standing at the bottom of the stairs, it will take your breath away to see all of the small, beautifully placed handmade tiles forming a wave of amazing sea life and various celestial shapes extending all the way up 163 stairs, and once you hike to the top … on a clear day … you are rewarded with the most spectacular view of the city from Ocean Beach to downtown.

Golden Gate Park

Golden Gate Park is the city's largest, and in my opinion, the most beautiful outdoor spot in San Francisco, where one can find everything from Dutch windmills, a buffalo herd, remote-controlled boats to museums and gardens … a true oasis in the middle of a bustling city. What more can I say that hasn’t been said about this wonderful park; so, the only thing left to do is to recommend my favorite must see spots: the Conservatory, Stow Lake, the Japanese Tea Garden, and de Young Museum (esp. the observatory offers a great view of the city).

Botanical Garden

Technically, this is part of the Golden Gate Park ... more like a park within a park; however, given that this is my favorite place in San Francisco, I thought it warranted its own mention.

Botanical Garden is an oasis in the heart of San Francisco, and even on the sunniest days, it never seems to be crowded … esp. since they implemented the $7 fee for non-residents, and the deeper into it you go, the more it feels like you’re the only person in this luscious garden.

There are so many little nooks, where you can sit quietly with people lazing together in the sunshine, reading books or exploring the various garden floras, and it is one of the best places for a picnic lunch … just be aware of the aggressive squirrels who will eat right out of your hand.

9th Avenue between Lincoln Way & Judah

Across from the main entrance of the Botanical Garden is 9th Avenue, which has some of the best selection of hole-in-the-wall, mom & pop stores and restaurants in town. My favorites are mentioned above under restaurants in Sunset.

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts

A great space for contemporary art and exhibitions that are small but extraordinary. It’s also nice to go to a museum where you don’t have to fight the crowd and feel their breath over your shoulders.

Legion of Honor

It houses a small collection of art, but from the outside, you have the most spectacular view of the Pacific and the Golden Gate Bridge.

Palace of Fine Arts

One of the most picturesque areas in San Francisco, esp. around the pond, and the nearby marina is a fantastic area for a stroll. Especially the walk from Palace of Fine Arts to Fort Mason (about 1.3 mi) has a beautiful view of the bay, and on Sunday mornings (9:30am - 1:30pm), there's a wonderful little farmer's market at Fort Mason. It's small but well organized, filled with excellent vendors: fresh organic produce and a great variety of seafood, olives, and breads/pastries. There's also the Roli Roti truck that sells crispy juicy pork knuckle ... cuz sometimes, a girl just gotta have some guuud pork knuckles, and an awesome bratwurst stand that makes me homesick for Germany!

F-line Muni

A great way to get around San Francisco to see most of the major sites is riding the F-line Muni, a collection of beautifully restored streetcars from all over the world. It’s not the fastest way to get around … more of a joy ride than a mode of transportation, but it definitely a fun way to see the city!

... and watching the sunset at Ocean Beach

*** TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN VISITING ***

1st week of every month is great time to be in SF, as majority of the museums are free on following days, 1st Tuesday – SF MOMA, de Young, Legion of Honor, 1st Wednesday – SF Zoo, Exploratorium, 1st Sunday – Asian Art Museum.

Contrary popular image of bikini-clad California girls running around town in Daisy Dukes and Ugg boots, you would hardly see anyone dressed in such skimpy apparel in San Francisco. The weather is cool (around 60 degrees) year round, and even on a warm day, you will need a jacket or a sweater once the sun sets. Therefore, the key to getting around the city comfortably is to dress in layers, at least 2-3 layers you can easily take off or put on. And ALWAYS carry a pair of sunglasses, even on a rainy day, as the weather in San Francisco is unpredictable, and you never know what you’re going to get.

10 FAVORITE THINGS TO DO WITH KIDS IN SF

An Expat's Guide to Paris

My favorite thing to do in Paris, walking, walking and walking anywhere and everywhere in this glorious city, and every turn reveals something more breathtaking. My favorite time of the day is at dusk just before the sun sets, when I can still make out the outline of this breathtaking city and see the twinkling lights begin to appear.

Although it has become a bit of cliché in the past years, my favorite area in Paris remains to be the Latin Quarter (5th & 6th Arr). I love to stroll through the small streets around la Sorbonne, observing the magnificent architecture of the Pantheon and on a beautiful night, sit at one of the outdoor cafes and enjoy one of the most cherished past-times in Paris, people-watching.

Parks in Paris are wonderful for children and adults alike, and the great thing is you can be as ambitious or laidback as you want.

• le Jardin de Luxembourg – Absolutely mesmerizing and even after all these years, it remains to be my favorite place in Paris, and each time I’m there, it’s as memorable as the first time I’d visited Paris.
• le Jardin de Tuileries – Although it’s in the center of a touristy area, it epitomizes Paris for all visitors and locals alike. There are a lot of playgrounds/areas and a beautiful carousel, a definitely must if you’re traveling with children. 
• le Palais Royal – a beautiful park as well as a magnificent architecture
• la Place des Vosges – One of the loveliest parks/squares in Paris filled with quaint cafes, shops and galleries, and esp. on Sundays, it’s one of the few places in Paris where the stores are open.
• le Forum des Halles in front of St Eustache – A bit grittier and known as “the belly of Paris” but nevertheless it’s a lovely area, filled with inexpensive ethnic restaurants and fun shops.
• Parc Monceau (8e) – Less known to tourists, it is perhaps one of the loveliest parks in Paris.
• Parc Montsouris (14e) – Most visitors would never venture out to this area; however, during my studies at Cité Universitaire, which happens to be directly across from the park, I enjoyed many morning walks through this beautiful park.

As far as lodging goes, there is a place for everyone in Paris, and on the contrary to the popular belief, there are plenty of charming and comfortable hotels that won’t leave you bankrupt. However, there are two things you should consider before deciding on lodging. First, find out what area is right for you according to your visiting goals, and then choose the type of accommodation matching your budget and taste.

Here are some of my favorite hotels. Not surprisingly, most of them are located on the left bank near the Latin Quarter; however, I’m also all about charm and comfort, and these hotels embodied everything I was looking for and has always made my trips to Paris more enjoyable.

• Hotel Duminy Vendome (1e) – a charming hotel few steps from le Jardin de Tuileries, perfect for 1st time visitors
• Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais (4e) – right in the heart of le Marais, another one of my favorite areas in Paris, with exceptionally friendly staff
• Hotel de Lutece (4e) – a charming hotel located on the Ile Saint Louis 
• Hotel de la Sorbonne (5e) – a quaint little hotel in the heart of the Latin Quarter, great distance to everything
• Hotel des Grandes Ecoles (5e) – Hotel des Grandes Ecoles is what I'd always envisioned a perfect Parisian hotel to be with beaucoup de charme, great location, and spotless & spacious, which is hard to find in the more charming hotels ... a true oasis in the heart of Latin Quarter.
• Hotel Lutetia (6e) – A beautiful hotel located in the heart of St. Germain des Pres; hence, it was very convenient to walk to/from some of my favorite areas and attractions in Paris. The rooms are a little smaller in comparison to some of the bigger chain hotels at the same price point, but the charm and the friendliness of the staff more than made up for it. 
• Best Western Aramis Saint Germain (6e) – Anyone who has traveled extensively in Europe knows that Best Western chain provides some of the loveliest and the most charming lodging in France ... shocking, I know. Nevertheless, from castles to cottages, BW has converted and renovated historical buildings in ideal locations, and offers clean & comfortable lodging at a great value throughout the country.
• Hotel L’Universite (7e) – a charming hotel with a friendly and helpful owner

There are two secrets to dining in Paris. One is that you don’t have to pay for water in restaurants; you simply have to ask for “une carafe d'eau”, which is an equivalent of getting tap water in the US … and yes, the tap water in France is completely safe to drink … and that Parisian do not have 5/7 course meals every night. For the majority of Parisian, le diner usually consists only 3 courses, and you’ll find many of the younger generation of Parisians sitting in brasseries or at an ethnic restaurants enjoying a simpler meal.

My restaurant recommendations:

• la Closerie des Lilas – An absolutely gorgeous restaurant at the southern entrance of the Jardin de Luxembourg with wonderful menu and great service.
• La Cigale Récamier – specializes in delicious, fluffy, seasonal, savory and sweet soufflé
• le China (rue de Charenton) – A wonderful little restaurant that really takes you back in time. It serves a good mixture of pan-Asian cuisine, which in France means Vietnamese food with a twist.
• le George – The restaurant on the 6th floor of le Centre Pompidou has the most beautiful roof terrace and one of the most spectacular view of the city at night. The décor is truly corky in a way that only the French can be, and the food, unfortunately, is less than mediocre; however, it’s definitely worth a visit if you want to be amongst the see and be seen crowd.
• la Brioche Dore and Paul – inexpensive chain restaurants that offers a good selection of pastries, perfect for breakfast or snack
• Leon – a Belgian chain restaurant that serves up some of the tastiest mussel dishes at a bargain price
• Soura (14e) – a great little Korean restaurant 
• Kathmandu (rue des Boulangers)
• la Grande Epicierie – a spectacular food market inside Bon Marché department store, near rue du Cherche Midi  & rue St Placide, where you could buy everything for a perfect picnic, and rue du Cherche-Midi is a wonderful shopping street as well with an array of celebrated food shops, restaurants, cafés and boutiques.
• all the cafeteria-style Chinese takeout restaurants throughout Paris, which is a great option for delicious take-outs
• restaurants in Chinatown in the 13e, esp. on the Ave. de Choisy
• le Café du Musée d'Art Moderne  – offers the most spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower and the Seine during the day

Of course, most of the museums in Paris needs no further explanation or promotion and are written about extensively in all the guidebooks; therefore, I’ll mention only my favorites and some of the cost-saving tips I’d learned while living in Paris as a student on a shoestring budget.

• le Musee d’Orsay
• le Louvre – First Sunday of the month is free (gratuit), but I must warn you, the line is long and tedious; so get there early if you want to keep your sanity to view all the wonderful works of art
• l’Orangerie – reduced ticket (tarif reduit) on Sundays
• Picasso Museum
• la Maison de Victor Hugo
• le Musee d’Art Moderne (metro Lena) houses an absolutely impressive collection of the French modern and contemporary art, and the café has one of the most impressive views overlooking the Eiffel Tower and the Seine. And the best part is that viewing the permanent collection is FREE!
• la Maison Européenne de la Photographie 

For a fashionista or fashionista at heart, Paris truly is a fashion mecca. From classics couturiers like Chanel and Balmain to avant guarde local favorites like Plein Sud, the city is studded with great places to shop, guaranteed to satisfy any discount-hunters, designer divas, window shoppers, and fashion victims alike. My favorite shopping areas are:

• behind le Forum les Halles on rue Montmartre & rue Montorgueil
• outside of la Place des Voges on rue des Francs Bourgeois
• rue des St Peres around St Sulpice
• along the St Germain des Pres outside of metro Odeon
• on rue Rivoli in front of Les Halles & along Bld St Martin near the Bld de Sebastopol, where some of the more practical chain stores are located.

Lastly, Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is a definite must for anyone visiting Paris.  Mother of all flea markets, it is the largest and the most well-known outdoor flea market in Paris … or France for that matter. Unfortunately, the area around the metro stop la Porte de Clignancourt is a bit dodgy and the outdoor market area immediately outside can be very crowded and bit of a maze to get through. However, I’ve never felt unsafe or encountered any problems in all the years I have traveled to Paris and have been to the market, and if you can work your way through the bazaar like atmosphere and get to the antique shops/vendors near rue des Rosiers there are treasures to be found … as well as beautiful photo ops.

As the song goes, “I love Paris in the springtime. I love Paris in the fall. I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles, I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles”, and although any time of the year is a great time in Paris, my favorite time is during the holidays in December when the entire city is decorated and lit up (even more so than usual), and if there’s snow, Paris becomes absolutely magical!

For my full reviews of hotels and restaurants in Paris.