Showing posts with label Asia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Asia. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 25, 2017

In Search of My Culture & Heritage

“Where are you from?” Question I’ve heard all my life. Simple yet ominous, almost always with an underlined implication that I am not from here.

Here can be subjective as well. Here in California, the U.S. or wherever I am, even in San Francisco where Asian Americans make up almost one-third of city’s population, I am often asked, where I’m really from.

Of course, I know what they mean. The question they're asking is about my heritage, my Korean heritage that is.

Truthfully, it has taken me a long time to understand my South Korean heritage and culture.
I was born in Seoul and immigrated to the U.S. when I was 10 years old. Although South Korea was an underdeveloped country then, my childhood was filled with happy memories of friends, school outings and long walks with my regal grandfather whom I’d always looked up to.

I remember distinctly the change of seasons, the bone-chilling cold winter followed by beautiful warm spring, the heat of the summer, and then cool breeze and breathtaking autumn foliage that came along with autumn.

There are childhood memories that are engraved in my mind. Birthday parties, family gatherings, and celebrating Korean traditions like annual gijesa, a memorial service performed on Chuseok and Lunar New Year and bowing before photos of ancestors who have passed away. I still remember the faces of my great grandparents and maternal grandmother.

Despite what those living in the western countries may think, the wonderment of growing up in most developing or underdeveloped countries are no different than that of developed world. Finding joy in simple things in life like puddle of frozen water in the backyard that provided an ideal place to glide or the warm summers nights spent playing outside with the kids in our neighborhood until the sun set.

The fondest memory of my young childhood was when I was first introduced to Christmas. After watching the movie “A Charlie Brown Christmas”, I asked my grandfather what the holiday meant. Of course, being a devout Buddhist at the time, my grandfather had little knowledge of Christian holidays.

My dear grandfather must have asked someone he worked with or must have referred to the movie because the next thing I knew, he had decorated one of our house plants with various fruits in shape of ornaments, and I was told, that was Christmas.

Aside from the wonderful childhood memories, there wasn’t a lot I knew about South Korea.

I arrived in the U.S. before we began to learn history, social science or anything else that really defines a country, and everything I learned about my heritage and culture was as an immigrant in the U.S.    

Although I spent most of my life acclimating into the new environment, immersing myself into the culture and language of the new country, every holidays and special days were spent with my family, including new members of the community who recently arrived in the States. I was taught at an early age the gold rule of Korean culture, “We take care of our own.”

However, having been educated in a conservative region in the U.S., there wasn’t a lot of exposure to history and politics of Asia. More time was spent on Nixon Watergate Scandal than understanding the Korean War, only premise being, North Koreans are bad; South Koreans are allies.

Six year had passed before I returned to South Korea. By then, only thing I was interested in was being an All American girl next door. Like most teenagers, I was caught up in the shopping frenzy in Seoul and had little interest in attractions and historical sites. All I cared about was going to Itaewon or Dongdaemun, the prime shopping area for knockoff designer merchandise and hitting the next food stall or restaurants.

Then, 20 years later, I went back to South Korea as an English Teacher. Aside from being able speak and understand basic Korean, I knew so little of the country in which I was born, and I went about my day as an outsider looking into the country I barely knew or understood.

My foreignness did not go unnoticed by the locals as well. Most South Koreans I encountered asked me, “Where are you from?” They, too, did not see me as one of their own, as a Korean. Nevertheless, I was embraced as something else, something different. In Korea, I am what the natives refer to as gyopo (교포), referring to people who, as a result of living outside the home country, have lost touch with their Korean roots. I had become a foreigner in my home country.

Although I’d spent my teenage and young adult life living up to the image of what an American should be, I began to see the value in my own culture. I had always cherished the memories of my childhood in South Korea, and even after three decades of living abroad, all the memories and familiarity came rushing back.  

I remembered the generosity of the people, like the courteous shop keepers and hospitable restaurant owners and staff, the caring little old ladies (halmonies) sitting on public transportation who would offer to hold my heavy bag if I’m standing in front of her, and the stoic taxi and bus drivers who would go out of their way to help you just because you needed it.

I didn’t need to be a fellow citizen, everyday human kindness superseded boundaries of race and ethnicity.

I have spent the past decade revisiting and learning more about South Korea, a country where the warmth of the people embraces you from the moment you get off the plane.

After the birth of my son, it became even more important to understand its culture and share with him the things that I loved as a child.

It came as a surprise to see how easily he acclimated in South Korea, especially how much he loves the food. It's been a joy to see his face light up when he is sitting in pojangmacha (a small tented food stall) having delicious street foods like spicy rice cakes, fish cakes, fried squid and hotteok, learning Korean history and traditions at the National Museum, or giddy about staying overnight at a traditional hanok inn (a traditional Korean house) where we slept on the floor like I used to when I was a little girl. 

He bares none of the stigma of being a gyopo and has all the freedom to explore and experience everything with a fresh perspective. 

At the same time, I can see that he feels the connection that binds us to the land, and he understands the heritage that is part of him.  Not only the history and tradition, but also the importance of being socially conscious, sense of community, respect for elders, and the value of family. 

It's wonderful that with every visit, my son and I have not only discovered new places but also learned, and are learning what it means to be Korean.



Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Road Trip Through South Korea’s Idyllic Countryside

South Korea is one of my favorite travel destinations! I love that everywhere you go, there a wonderful mixture of ultra-modern technology as well as tradition and natural beauty. It is a country full of spectacular sights of both industrialized, urban cities as well as cultural, suburban and rural areas. It is a diverse country for both city tourists and wild adventurers.

As much as I love Seoul, South Korea’s capital city, during this trip, I wanted to venture out and see other parts of the country.

There are many different way to take a road trip in South Korea. As the public transportation is one of the finest and the most efficient in the world, you can take either buses or KTX, high-speed train to any desired destinations. However, we opted to rent a car and drive, which gave us a lot of flexibility to change our itinerary!

Full disclosure, renting a car is expensive in South Korea (about $100/day), but the standard and the quality of car is much better than the run-of-the-mill cars you get in the U.S. Not only was the car we rented looked (and even smelled) like it just came out of a showroom, it was equipped with the top of the line media equipment and GPS.

Instead of renting the car at one of the two main airports, (ICN or GMP), we decided to pick up our rental at a location near by the hotel, which saved us about 3 hours of travel time, and we had to pay for the convenience.

Note that some of the car rental offices are located in residential buildings, which will be difficult to find, and do not be discouraged or worried if you don’t see parking lot of rental cars. As space is limited in Seoul, rental offices may keep one or two cars based on reservations.
Once we picked up the car, we were on our way to Gyeongju, the ancient capital of Silla Dynasty located southeast of the Korean Peninsula.

As is the case when taking a road trip in any foreign country, having a reliable GPS is a must! Some may insist traveling without one will enable you to enjoy the off the beaten path, but after nearly three decades of travel experience, I’ve learned that I’m able to enjoy the off the beaten path more if I actually know what path to take.

However, South Korean roads are in an impeccable condition, and there is plenty of great signage in English to make the road trip doable without a navigation system.

Unfortunately, we found out an hour into our road trip that the week we’d designated for the road trip was the week of a major holiday in South Korea, and everyone (which seemed like all of Seoul’s 10 million inhabitants) and their Uhm-ma were on the road with a destination in mind. Note to self, always be aware of major holidays when making travel plans!

Although our trip to Gyeongju took 7 hours in comparison to the 4 hours it was supposed to take, we were glad that we made the trip, as we couldn’t have asked for a more scenic introduction to the South Korean countryside.

South Korea consists in large part of Precambrian rocks that are more than about 540 million years old, and the country is largely mountainous, with small valleys and narrow coastal plains. The T’aebaek Mountains run in roughly a north-south direction along the eastern coastline.
Although none of South Korea’s mountains aren’t very high, they certainly are picturesque and retains a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere even while sitting in a back-to-back traffic jam. And as strange as it may sound, the best part of our prolonged drive were the bus stops along the highway, which were equipped with a great selection of freshly made Korean meals and snacks!

Gyeongju (경주)
Nestled in the central valleys of South Korea is Gyeongju, “walking museum”, as I like to call it. It is a testament to Korea’s past, and there are numerous Buddhist temples and royal burials grounds throughout the city ad beyond to keep you busy for weeks.

Bulguksa Temple
Daereungwon Tomb Complex
Jeonju (전주)
Jeonju is one of South Korea's top destinations, though it remains under the radar for international travelers. The largest city in the country's southwest, Jeonju has a vibrant historic district and a fantastic food scene!

In 2012 the city was designated a Unesco City of Gastronomy. Though the city itself sprawls, the main attractions are mostly clustered in one area, and you can easily wander cobblestone lanes lined with traditional homes, Hanok.

Many hanok are now also guesthouses, and sleeping in a hanok means sleeping on mats on the floor (which benefits from ondol, a unique form of underfloor heating in traditional Korean architecture).

I haven’t slept on the floor since I was a little girl, and my husband and I weren’t sure whether how our wiry middle-aged bodies would react. Surprisingly, we had the best nights sleep, and we enjoyed sharing the experience with my little boy, who thought, “Sleeping on the floor was really cool!”
Jeju-do (제주도)
Jeju-do (제주도), Korea’s largest island, has long been the country’s favorite domestic holiday destination thanks to its beautiful beaches, lush countryside and seaside hotels designed for rest and relaxation.

What surprised me the most was that there were so many family-friendly places and activities.

Kimnyoung Maze Park (김녕미로공원)
Seguiwpo, Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff (주상절리 대포동지삿개)
lovely Deokpanbae Museum
Udo (우도)
Situated off the eastern coast of Jeju Island, Udo Island was named because it resembles a lying cow. It boasts fertile soil, abundant schools of fish, and scenic sights; local heritages (female divers, stone walls, and stone tombs) as well as natural attractions abound on the island, making it an ideal day trip from Jeju Island and a lovely drive.

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Spectacular Lotus Lantern Festival

I have seen a lot of spectacular events around the world. NYC Marathon, Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade, Tour de France and even the Rice Festival in little town of Arles. However, I've never witnessed an event so festive and at the same time, as lovely and tranquil as the Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul, South Korea.
The Lotus Lantern Festival celebrates the Birth of Buddha similar to the way Christians celebrate Christmas in observance of the birth of Jesus Christ. However, unlike Christmas, Buddha's Birthday is celebrated throughout a month (usually in April) in most part of Asia as a non-commercial event, which means, it's a holiday that can be enjoyed just for the sake of celebrating without the lunacy of gift giving. 

The month-long festival is packed with events, and all the Buddhist temples are decorated with magnificent display of colorful lanterns. However, the highlight definitely are the events that takes place on the last weekend before the Buddha's Birthday which falls on 8th April by Lunar Calendar.

Ever since I read about the Lotus Lantern Festival on an inflight magazine, I knew it was something I must see, and it was nothing less than spectacular!

The highlight of the festival was the evening Lantern Parade. As if the endless stream of floats carrying beautifully constructed and brightly illuminated lanterns weren't enough, on the contrast to the rowdy festivals in the U.S. and Europe, I was surprised how peaceful the parade was. There were even chairs for the spectators to rest and enjoy all along the parade route!

There were lantern carriers and floats with everything from traditional lotus flower lanterns and paper lanterns to lanterns in the shape of Hangul, the Korean alphabet, spelling out words. There are huge floats in the shapes of dragons, elephants and birds as well as Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. There are groups from temples, groups from schools and of course the most popular groups are the monks themselves.

It truly was one the most mesmerizing and memorable event I’ve seen with vibrant palate of colors of the lanterns and participants of the parade. I really loved the celebratory atmosphere, and it was great to see the comradery of the people and all the families with small children who were enjoying themselves into the wee hours of the night.

Lotus Lantern Festival is an event I would fly across the world to see again!

Breakdown of the events.
▣ City Hall Lighting Ceremony
Seoul City Hall Plaza will be decorated with a large light symbolizing the birth of Buddha on April 18 before the official lotus lamp lighting ceremony. With the lighting of the large lamp, the lotus lamp lighting ceremony will begin with various programs including praying around the pagoda stone.

The lights will come on every evening during sunset, until 1:00 am from April 18 to May 5. Anyone wishing to see the beautiful lotus lights can visit City Hall Plaza.

▣ Exhibition of Traditional Lanterns
People from all religions around the world will enjoy seeing the display of lanterns made with hannji. Approximately 40 designs of uniquely colored lanterns will be on display. Wishes are made according to the shape of the lantern.

This beautiful exhibition is free of charge and is open from April 29 to May 5 for 2 hours. The exhibition is held at Bongeunsa Temple, visitors can take subway line No.2 to Samseong Station. Go out exit No. 6 and walk for about 10 minutes to the temple.
▣ Festivals Eve Celebration
The Eve Celebration will parade from Jogyesa Temple to Insa-dong, offering spectators a splendid sight. The larger than life lanterns along with amazing costumes make this event unforgettable.

The Eve Celebration will be held on April 29, from 7:00pm to 9:00pm, starting at the street in front of Jogyesa Temple.
▣ Buddhist Street Festival
Performances of Korean traditional percussion instruments and the Foreigners’ Traditional Dance Show offer much to see. Visitors can also take part in making lotus lanterns, experience of traditional straw utensils, and a variety of other Buddhist-related activities.

Additional activities include eating temple fare and sampling traditional tea. The Buddhist Street Festival is open on April 30, from noon to 8 pm and is held at the street in front of Jogyesa Temple.

▣ Opening Ceremony for the parade
The opening ceremony is full of rhythm and song. Roughly 30,000 Buddhists representing temples from around the country gather to celebrate the birth of Buddha.

The opening ceremony is held on April 30 from 4:30 to 6:30pm for 2 hours at Dongdaemun Sports Complex. To get there, take Subway lines No. 2, 4, or 5

▣ Lantern Parade
Approximately 100,000 lanterns will light the streets at the Lantern Parade. Unique lanterns in the shape of animals, flowers, mythical creatures, and more will travel the streets of Seoul, creating an atmosphere that is magical. Lanterns will range from small hand- held lanterns to larger than life lanterns.

The Lantern Parade is held on April 30 from 07:00pm to 09:30pm. The parade starts at Dongdaemun History & Culture Park and heads down the streets of Jongno, until reaching Jogyesa Temple.
▣ Being Together Celebration
The final celebration of the festival is the Dongdae Celebration of unity and hope in which flowers rain down from the heavens in front of Jogyesa Temple. The city becomes one at this event as visitors sing and dance in celebration. The final celebration will take place in front of Jogyesa Temple on April 30 from 9:30pm to 10:30pm. This final celebration for the festival will be packed with people, so caution is advised.