Showing posts with label Ronchamp. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ronchamp. Show all posts

Thursday, May 2, 2013

10 Extraordinary Experiences in France

As a self-proclaimed Francophile, I’ve spent the past decade traveling and discovering every corner of France.  From the picture perfect country sides of Alsace to the magnificent beaches of Dune de Pyla, I love all the wonders that the country has to offer: breathtaking scenery, charming villages and towns, spectacular beaches (mostly the western coast and not the proverbial Cote d’Azur) and mountains, the divine selection of wine, the scrumptious cuisine … and on … and on … and on.

However, here are 10 extraordinary experiences I've had that were not only a lot of fun but also has changed the way I traveled. It is unlikely that any of them will be mentioned in travel guides or magazine as "must dos", but they are extraordinary experiences beyond just visiting and seeing the conventional tourist attractions.

Rollerblading in Paris 
Over the years, rollerblading (roller, as the locals call it) in Paris has become a trendy event, and these days, you can even join hundreds of skaters (called Pari-Roller) to cruise down the magnificent city of lights in the middle of the night. 
 
However, I like to think that I started this trend back in 1997, while I was studying there, and blazing through the cobblestone streets of Paris while observing the gorgeous scenery and the Parisian sitting at outdoor cafes was truly an unforgettable experience.

Learning French in Strasbourg 
Strasbourg is a picture perfect town in a region that borders Germany known as Alsace, and ever since the European Parliament has moved its headquarters there, it’s become a bustling town that attracts thousands of tourists who flock to get a glimpse of its magnificent gothic cathedral and immaculately maintained vieille ville, la Petite France.

I had the pleasure of attending a language school filled with people from all over the world, which made for a very festive atmosphere, and we were more interested in learning about each other than conjugation. Nevertheless, it was a great place to soak up the French language and culture.

Megeve is a wonderfully charming ski village near Mont Blanc with a splendid selection of restaurants, hotels and shops.  Among all the beautiful ski resorts and towns in Europe, Megeve is my absolutely favorite.  The village with its turreted houses around a 17th-century church, the scent of wood smoke  that permeates through the entire town, and the sounds of hooves clopping on cobblestones is straight out of a fairytale.

From 11am to 6am, the center of the old village closes to traffic, except for pedestrians and sledges, and you can shop at your leisure, stopping everywhere from the cobbler to the antiques dealer to the many boutiques.  The picture-perfect charcuteries, fromageries and boulangeries sell some of the best delicatessen in France, and the shops offer a wonderful variety of traditional crafts.

Biking Around Lac Leman 
Covering about 140 sq miles (362 sq km), crescent-shaped Lac Léman is the largest, and in my opinion, the loveliest lake in Western Europe.  My husband and I’d discovered it on our way from Provence to Frankfurt, and what a lovely surprise it turned out to be!  We’d stayed overnight in a little town of Thonon-les-Bains at Hotel le Duche de Savoie.  We’d arrived late at night and didn’t get to see much of the town that evening, but when we woke up the next morning, we were pleasantly surprised by the spectacular view outside our window. 

Lac Léman truly is a hidden gem, and we’ve gone back several times throughout the years exploring different cities and towns around it.  However, the BEST part of being there is observing and absorbing the breathtaking scenery.

Wonderful Meals in Beaune 
People often ask me where I’ve had the best meals during my travel, and although the term ‘best’ is highly relative, without hesitation, Beaune comes to mind. Having said that, the great thing about traveling in France is that you don’t have to spend a lot of money on great food, which throws the whole myth about 'French food being overly pricey' right out the window, and Beaune is a perfect example of that.

Beaune is a relatively unknown town in Bourgogne, which makes it an ideal place for a stopover, especially since there is a larger selection of charming hotels and wonderful restaurants that offer haute cuisine at a reasonable price. Also, the town has a charming market on Saturday mornings that offers rather a large selection of produce and crafts, and the Hotel Dieu alone is definitely worth a visit.

Beautiful Town of Orange 
Orange is a charming little town, located in the south of France. Although it may not be as sophisticated as some of the more tourist-driven towns and villages in Provence, it has one of the most well-maintained Roman theaters in Europe. It also has a beautiful town square and offers budget travelers a great selection of charming hotels at a reasonable price.

To me, Orange will always be the best kept secret in Provence. It is without a doubt one of the most charming little towns in the region, and my husband and I have such fond memories of visiting Orange on our first road trip and staying in Hotel St. Florent, which has become one of our favorites in France.

Enchanting Medieval Town of Sarlat-la-Canéda
Sarlat is a picturesque town located in the heart of France, and although it’s the best-preserved medieval town in southwestern France representative of 14th century France, or Europe for that matter, due to its isolated location, tourism-wise, it remains to be one of the least developed places in France.

Walking through this gorgeous town filled with so many ancient buildings, we felt as if we’d stepped back into another age.  My favorite experience in Sarlat was going to the outdoor market on the weekend, and having a lot of scrumptious meals, as even the rustic food are prepared with the freshest ingredients from local farmers.  Oh what I would give to taste cassoulet in Sarlat again!

Pilgrimage to Rocamadour 
All the guide books may rave about Mont Saint Michel, but I prefer Rocamadour.  Located about 100 miles north of Toulouse, Rocamadour is a pectacular natural and religious site perched high on a rocky plateau.  The name literally derives from “roc”, which translates into rock, and “Amadour” named after the Saint whose body was known to be preserved in the area.

Aside from being one of the most spectacular sites in France, Rocamadour serves an important pilgrimage destination. Today, tourists come to Rocamadour for its religious interest, historical significance, beautiful architecture, and most of all, for the spectacular views, and for us, staying in Rocamadour, especially our favorite Hotel Beau Site, was a truly unique experience we would never forget.

Notre Dame du Haut in Ronchamp is undoubtedly one of Le Corbusier finest work.  High on a hill near Belfort in eastern France, Le Corbusier’s masterpiece unfolds in the round, offering, like a sequence of Mondrians and Arps, different and uncannily poised compositions from every angle, back and front, side to side, inside and out and, crucially, in relation to the grounds. It commands the hill as the Parthenon does the Acropolis, its immense roof a great airfoil or billowing sail appearing to lift the building off the earth, and simultaneously seeming to weigh it down, compress it.

What Le Corbusier called the chapel’s “ineffable space” derives not from Zen-like simplicity or Baroque extravagance but from this quasi-Cubist asymmetry of robust, jaunty, sensuous shapes, held in improbable equilibrium as if by a juggler on a tightrope. It’s a sculptural feat. Nowadays architects rely on digital technology to fashion swooping, soaring spaces that look as if they folded in on themselves. Ronchamp, by contrast, is the product of old-fashioned craft and serendipity, every surface different from every other, imperfectly, lovingly made. – “Quiet Additions to a Modernist Masterpiece” by Michael Kimmelman

Picnics on Dune de Pyla 
About 60km (40miles) from Bordeaux lies the Dune de Pyla, the highest dune in Europe and one of the most magnificent beaches in the world.  At the summit, you get a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the large pine forest on the other.

One of my favorite travel experience was sitting on top of the dune, having a picnic consisting of a great bottle of Bordeaux with my husband while soaking up that glorious view, which seemed surreal at times.  We also loved our charming little hotel La Corniche which had a breathtaking view of the Ocean.

10 More Favorites:



Wednesday, September 19, 2012

All About France, Picturesque Alsace Lorraine

One of the great perks of living in Western Europe is the proximity to so many different countries and cultures, and Frankfurt being situated smack dab in the middle of Europe, as far as traveling goes, I couldn’t have asked for a better location.

Of course, as soon as I landed on the continent, I had made it my mission in life to see and discover as much of France as my time and finances would allow. I wanted to explore this country filled with world-class art and architecture, unmatched food and delicious wine that has inspired many to gasp in satisfied contentment, and to see the breathtaking landscapes. Even before my first road trip to Southern France had ended, I was already making a list of other regions and cities to see.
I quickly found out that traveling in France is like taking a bite out of a scrumptious mille-feuill, a French pastry made up of alternating layers of puff pastry and pastry cream. It literally translates ‘a thousand leaves’, and it’s layers and layers of tasty goodness that fills your mouth with such pleasure that once you’ve tasted it, you will never go back to eating an ordinary pie.

My first stop, Alsace Lorraine. Being that it’s a region closest to Germany, and that I’d gotten a brief but lovely introduction to the area and its culture during my studies in Strasbourg, my husband and I wanted to explore Alsace Lorraine almost every chance we got.

Though often spoken of as if they were one, Alsace and Lorraine, neighboring regions in France’s northeastern corner, are linked by little more than a border through the Massif des Vosges (Vosges Mountains). Lorraine, a land of prairies and forests popularly associated with quiche, has little of the picturesque quaintness of Alsace. However, it is home to two particularly handsome cities, both former capitals. Nancy, one of France’s most refined and attractive urban centers, is famed for its Art Nouveau architecture, while Metz, 54km to the north, is known for its Germanic architecture and the stunning stained glass of its marvelous cathedral.

Alsace is one of the most picturesque regions of France. Filled little villages and town that are straight out of fairytales, gorgeous landscapes with imposing medieval castles, and picturesque vineyards and wineries that produces world-class wine, it is an ideal travel destination for anyone looking for a taste of France’s joie de vivre.

Gertrude Stein has famously declared, “America is my country and Paris is my hometown.” I definitely understood this sentiment as soon as I’d arrived in Paris, as it’s beauty and culture allured me as it has millions of visitors before me. However, if Paris is heart of France, then Strasbourg is definitely its soul.

This beautiful home of European Parliament captivated me from the moment I first saw it. Also, as the capital of Alsace, it offers a wide variety of options in hotels as well as dining and entertainment.
Colmar
Situated in the heart of the Alsace, Colmar is a charming little town along the Route du Vin. The old town is beautiful, reminiscent of la Petite France in Strasbourg, with narrow cobbled streets, flanked on either side by sixteenth and seventeenth century half-timbered houses.
More picturesque villages & towns in the area: Eguisheim, Guebwiller, Kaysersberg, Obernai, Ribeauville, Riquewhir, Saint Hippolyte and Turckheim
(Chateau de)Haut Koenigsbourg
a monumental medieval castle in the midst of the Alsacean mountains
Mulhouse
another big city in the area, not as quaint or charming but nevertheless has a good selection of inexpensive hotels and a wide variety of restaurants

Ronchamp
High on a hill near Belfort in eastern France, Le Corbusier’s masterpiece unfolds in the round, offering, like a sequence of Mondrians and Arps, different and uncannily poised compositions from every angle, back and front, side to side, inside and out and, crucially, in relation to the grounds. It commands the hill as the Parthenon does the Acropolis, its immense roof a great airfoil or billowing sail appearing to lift the building off the earth, and simultaneously seeming to weigh it down, compress it.

What Le Corbusier called the chapel’s “ineffable space” derives not from Zen-like simplicity or Baroque extravagance but from this quasi-Cubist asymmetry of robust, jaunty, sensuous shapes, held in improbable equilibrium as if by a juggler on a tightrope. It’s a sculptural feat. Nowadays architects rely on digital technology to fashion swooping, soaring spaces that look as if they folded in on themselves. Ronchamp, by contrast, is the product of old-fashioned craft and serendipity, every surface different from every other, imperfectly, lovingly made. – “Quiet Additions to a Modernist Masterpiece” by Michael Kimmelman
Verdun
Built on both banks of the Meuse and intersected by a series of canals, Verdun may not be the prettiest city I’ve seen in France, but it is definitely one of the most memorable. Most visitors who come to Verdun are there to see the famous World War I battlefields and the cemeteries of the unknown soldiers, the setting of the novel, “All Quiet on the Western Front” by Erich Maria Remarque, where one of the most devastating battles in the First World War and the history of warfare took place.
The Vosges (La Route des Crêtes)
The Vosges are one of the oldest mountain ranges in France, and once formed one of the country's boundaries with Germany. Richly forested with tall hardwood trees and firs, they skirt the western edge of the Rhine and resemble Germany's Black Forest. La Route des Crêtes, originally chiseled out of the mountains as a supply line, begins west of Colmar, at the Col du Bonhomme. High points are Münster (home of the cheese), Col de la Schlucht (a resort with panoramas as far as the Jura and the Black Forest), and Markstein. At any point along the way, you can stop and strike out on some of the well-marked hiking trails.
My favorites in Strasbourg
  • Hotel Gutenberg – a lovely and charming hotel in the heart of the city
  • the wonderful outdoor markets, especially the antique book market on Saturdays
  • the Christmas market – will take your breath away
  • l’Orangerie – a lovely park near the European Parliament building
  • Flames – a wonderfully inexpensive restaurant that serves up all sorts of tasty tarte flambé
Recommended Hotels & Inns in Alsace Lorraine